The Diana tour of Coimbra surrounds

I decide I will go easy on the food and drink today. None of my clothes fit me comfortably any more. Apart from that they are all dirty and wet from all the rain. I am feeling a bit homesick - I think I am nearly over this travel caper.


Alan and I walk up to the University before breakfast. At 10 am we are in our square when we hear Diana (State Ref library colleague of Alan's) shouting at us from her grey volvo at the lights: "GET IN THE CAR." We pile in unceremonously and away we go, Diana talking ten to the dozen.


Tearing along the highway like locals we head towards the Roman ruins at Conimbriga. We get lost so have a coffee break. Diana tells us that a latte is called a mia delite and insists that we try the local delicacy - pastel nata, a custard filled pastry. Fabulous, but there go the diet plans for the day!


We have all but given on finding the ruins but accidentally stumble on them 4 kms out of Conimbrigia. Alan is ecstatic to get another fix of Roman empire remnants. He is very taken with the site, particularly by the mosaic floors. He waxes lyrical about the colours in the mosaics.

After visiting the ruins of the Roman empire in three different countries now and noting the similarities in the way the towns and houses were laid out in each we have quite an appreciation of the incredible town planning disciplines and organisational powers of the conquering Romans.  Life in an ancient Roman town would have been quite pleasant.

We get lost again before heading towards Montemor-o-Velho, 32 kms west of Coimbra.


And of course we lunch.


Sue:


"Rose, Lee and I have grilled bass and salad. Alan has grilled ribs and Diana pork mixed up with cubed vegies. All quite tasty - and cheap again. Five meals with two beers, minerals waters and coffees comes to under 35 euros."


We walk off lunch at Montemor-o-Velho castle, which broods over the flood plain of the Mondega. It was built in about the 10th or 11th century and looks very Norman with moorish influences.  I find it very dramatic and interesting but I can't help comparing it to 'our' castle back at Hautefort in France where the outlook from the castle is so surreally beautiful.  Here it is a bit more 'Glenorchy'.

Back at Coimbra it is pouring down with rain but we wade around alleyways looking for that elusive shop I have talked up so much.


I decide to skip dinner and drinks and stay in my room watching the update on the mine rescue via CNN on telly and listening to the rain outside. The food battlers, however, strike out again.


Sue:


"We decide to revist our restaurant of the previous night. They have changed the menu. Alan has the salted cod cooked in milk (recommended by Diana) with the bright yellow chips and rice again. The meal had a curdled kind of look. Rose and I have a dish of pasta and meat chunks with salad and a half jug of red wine and then it is home to bed early."

Umbrella time in Porto and Coimbra

It is pouring in Porto as we walk around town for one last look around. As is always the way we discover interesting streets we haven't come across before just as we are about to leave. There are lots of very over the top bridalwear shops where we take photos to show Elysia.


We have lunch in the middle of the shopping area in a little cafe called Tupi Tupi where people are queueing to get a table.


Over to Sue:


"Alan has his usual serving of soup - vegetable this time. We compensate with a glass of red wine because we can't have him having more than us. We all have the fish - it is nice - boneless, moist and lightly battered. (Apparently it was the Portugese who introduced tempura to the Japanese.) The meal is accompanied by rice with beans - risotto style - and carrot salad. The ambience is enhanced by the shimmering peacock-blue eyelids of the elderly lady behind us. It is our best meal in Portugal so far for only 27 euros for all us including the good red wine."

The train trip to Coimbra takes just over an hour and we find accommodation right behind the main square opposite the river. Pensao Residencial Larbelo is very efficiently run and very clean. We are told off by the stern lady behind the desk to move so the cleaning lady, in her housecoat and scrubbing away on her knees, can clean the floor behind us. The rooms are spotless but ours are three floors up the spiral red staircase.


After a predinner drink in a great courtyard we find a little restaurant in an alleyway. They don't speak any English which makes for interesting identification of menu items.


Sue:


"Lee, Rose and I have the pork chops with very yellow french fries and rice with a carafe of red. The chops are a bit dry. We also have three salads and numerous bits of bread. Alan has roast chicken washed down with a carafe of white wine. Again the meal is ridiculously cheap."