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Instead of catching the bus all the way to Thira and then back towards Kamari we decide to be intrepid travellers. We catch the local bus to the next town Perissa and then the little ferry that goes around the headland to Kamari. To jump on the boat we wade out into the sea and hoist the suitcases up on the deck. It hasn't entered my mind that the trip could be a bit rough as the Aegean sea has always been dead calm but as we round the headland, passing narrowly through a rocky passage we hit some large and choppy waves. The boat lurches all over the place for about 10 minutes. I am sure it is going to fill with water and sink and scream a few times, much to A's embarrassment.
When we arrive, our day at Kamari is very pleasant. Our accommodation is great – own apartment for only 35 euros, which is about $50. We lunch – fantastic fresh fish with nicely done potatoes and Greek salad and share a half litre carafe of retsina – all for 19 euros. Time for a siesta on our free-with-lunch sun lounges under a straw umbrella.
For dinner we finally find the restaurant we have been recommended to try with the old Greek lady, all in black wearing a hat, sitting outside. Stuffed tomatoes for me and chicken souvlaki for Alan. Another great meal.
We spend a leisurely morning at Perissa, the next beach along from ours, at our favourite cafe/wifi spot emailing and chatting with some Western Australian teachers on long service leave. We swap travel stories – they give us some great advice about Italian post offices and we tell them what to see and do on Santorini.
The museum in Thira is closed (because it is Monday – of course) so we drive back to Perissa for some lunch along the beach front at 4pm. We are finally adopting European ways. We share octopus and Greek salads and decide to buy provisions for dinner as we walk back to the car. The taverna has given Alan the rest of the bread rolls he did not eat and I have some rice crackers back at Glaros.
We buy a big red tomato, a can of sardines, grapes, a peach, sesame bars and a litre bottle of home-made white wine in a plastic soft drink bottle. The wine costs only two Euros and 50 cents – cheaper than what we have paid per glass in most tavernas. It is surprisingly okay and it is a relaxing evening 'in' for our last night at Glaros. We could have done with some plates and cutlery but manage with paper serviettes and the multi-purpose travel tool Johnny gave me – thank you Johnny!
The wine does the trick and we both sleep well on our final night at Glaros – the yoga retreat where there is no yoga and where there is a caste of characters who look after us. We wish we knew more about them – Santos, the older man with the limp,owner of the cute dog, who fixes the door handle for us, Mohammed from Pakistan who smiles a lot and brings us breakfast each morning and the pleasant Greek woman who cleans our room each day.
We take away fond memories of our time spent here. What the fire crackers going off for many nights were about, however, we will never know.
We drive up the road which zig zags up the mountain from Kamari to ancient Thira. The road is mostly only wide enough for one car and has frequent blind corners. I pray we won't meet a car coming down the mountain. It is disconcerting to be sitting in what is usually the driver's seat but in this case is the front passenger seat. I am doing a lot of co-driver nagging. Luckily we meet only one car and a few motos.
The view from the top of the road is spectacular. We can see the full length of the island, the airport, the monastery on top of an even higher mountain than this one to the right, and below the many beach resorts and islands beyond.
We walk further up the mountain top expecting to see a few dusty remnants of the site of ancient Thira but we become aware it is much much more. We enter stony streets which intersect with other streets, there are ruins of houses, theatres, public spaces, basilicas – it goes on for many acres. Bruce, in particular, would appreciate the stone work here. A sweet earthy aroma pervades the whole mountain top – a hint of maple syrup. I wonder if it is some plant.
Thousands of people have lived here, been born here, died here – it is quite overwhelming.
Later in the day we drive up to the monastery, which you can't enter but I take some nice photos of some mosaics on the wall. We stop at Pyrgos on the way down and get lost in a maze of thin cobbled alleyways. I take photos of churches. Further down the road we stop at Santo winery – which is quite a tourist operation. Buses, people, big shop, wine tastings, spectacular spot obviously to watch the sunset over the caldera.
The island has many wineries and there are grapes growing everywhere as well as olives and fig trees. We pass a few roadside stalls selling 'agricultural products'.
Back at Glaros we go for another swim before showering for dinner. Our days have a pattern now – swim before breakfast, a morning exploring, lunch at a beachside restaurant, some part of the afternoon on a sun lounge on a beach, more swims, back to Glaros – another swim... We walk the beachfront street reading menus before deciding which restaurant for dinner. Young handsome Greek men (and occasionally blonde women) are front of house, each with differing mixtures of charm and bullshit trying to entice us into their establishment. Blake you must come here! Another great meal and home to bed...
Just caught up with the news that Julia Gillard is PM. Glad we avoided Tony!
The tan deepens. Yesterday when I mentioned recent Buchanan visitors I forgot Bill and Caroline who have also just been here. Looking forward to comparing notes with them! Saw the outdoor cinema Bill mentioned near Kamari.
We spend a very relaxing morning at Perissa Beach on the sun lounges under the straw umbrellas. Fab lunch and you can see from the pic I do my wifi-ing on the go.
We go in search of the ancient settlement at Akriotiri but it is closed but find Red Beach instead. You walk into Red Beach over a craggy headland. Amazing vista of sun lounges and umbrellas in front of a red volcanic cliff.
Lee who never misses a shopping opportunity buys a red coral ring on the beach from the jeweller who made it and dove for the coral on an island near Santorini - well that's the story. Pic for Shauna to see! Chelsea I am on the lookout for some nice jewellery for you.
Santorini is only 18 kms long so it is easy to get around to see all the sights. Petrol though is about about AUS $2.50 a litre. Bye for now. Some nice doors for you and a collage of Red Beach pics.
Hullo everyone. A and I seated in bar next to the beach watching the sunset - as you do in Santorini.
Have been thinking of Micaela who was here recently. Nice to know there is a definite Buchanan presence here now. More Buchanans must come!
Thanks also to Mandy Denby for honeymooning here and inspiring us to come!!
Instead of uploading the pics individually from our visit to Oia last night I thought I would cheat and put up a collagey thing so here goes...
Yes very amazing here and gets more amazing every day as you will see from the pics. Yesterday we went on cruise - supposed to be for only 25 people - make that 250 people or more! This aside it was fantastic - Alan walked to top of volcano -then we visited Thirassio, a small island off Santorini with a few fishing villages. Here we had lunch, a swim and took photos, then back on boat bound for Oia at top of island and sunset.
We caught a donkey ride from port up to town - laughing all the way! Wish you were here James - you would have loved it.The town was mega amazing - never seen anything so beautiful in my life. Watching the people watching the sunset was almost as good as the sunset.
I am typing this in a restaurant overlooking Perissa beach where we have been relaxing on our beach lounges, taking occasional dip, watching the scenery and scantily clad people and having a foot massage. The little ferry that takes you around to the next beach has just arrived again, Greek music is playing loudly, the wine is chilled - what more could one want. I have ordered grilled sardines and salad and Alan has order grilled squid for lunch. Mmm. We seem to be spending about 15 to 20 euros a day for lunch and between 30 and 40 for dinner.
This afternoon we will drive to Akrotiri archaelogical dig further down island. Would you believe we have seen pottery cups and gold sculpture of a strange animal in the local museum that are over four thousand years old. The volcano eruption which created Santorini as it is today caused a giant tsunami which effectively wiped out Crete and the Minoan civilsation.
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Despite our trepidation about our accommodation we sleep well. The room is actually large and has a white marble floor, blue shutters and air-conditioning so is cool and airy. It is also very quiet.
Wearing our newly purchased thongs we walk the 50m to the beach for our early morning swim. We are the only ones on the beach and discuss how all the young things are probably still asleep after a late night partying followed by hours of lovemaking (many couples on the beach yesterday seemed to be into public displays of languorous foreplay). We return to Glaros and a motorbike turns up at the shed opposite where our caretakers seems to reside. It is fresh bread from a bakery and yogurt and fruit for me. While we are showering we hear them setting up our breakfast in the alcove outside our room.
We feel much better now. Our hosts are making an effort to make us happy. This is a real guesthouse after all – even though we think we are the only guests! We discuss how really one only needs a few simple things to make one happy – bread, fruit, a cup of Liptons tea, a good night's sleep, sunshine...
Not long after we are handed a set of car keys and with sign language told this is for the small green citroen. There are no papers to sign, no insurance deals, no money transaction – perhaps we just need to get more into the Greek way of doing things.
We have a fabulous day. Alan does a great job of driving well on the wrong side of the road. We visit Fira (breathtaking), Perissa and Kamari and book a cruise for tomorrow...
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